Juba

Juba is a fast growing city and capital of Southern Sudan.

 Get in

By plane

Direct flights from Nairobi to Juba are offered on a variety of commercial airlines. It’s not cheap – US$500 round trip is the minimum you can expect to pay. Charter and UN flights are also available from Lokichokio. Nowadays it is also becoming common to use a route through Addis Ababa. Ethiopian Airlines has direct flight three times a week. Egyptair has direct flight twice per week from Cairo.

There are several direct flights from Khartoum to Juba each week costing around US$200 each way, however the airlines running this route keep changing (AirWest are currently flying (Feb 2008) Nova Airlines recently shelved this route). There are also regular flights from Entebbe in Uganda.

By bus

If overlanding, daily buses run from Kampala – take 12 hours minimum if the roads are dry – it only takes one broken down truck or deep flooded muddy pothole to add hours to the journey. Because of the recent floodings in Northern Uganda, the trips takes almost 36 hours. Departure at 3 a.m. (Nile Coach near Gateway in the city center of Kampala)with an overnight stop in Yumbe. No regular buses run to Kenya although some trucks run the route – most Kenyan traffic runs through Uganda as the roads are in better shape.

If flying down from Khartoum bring your passport, although you don’t need a separate visa in addition to the standard Sudanese one your passport will be checked for a Sudan visa at Juba airport.

If overlanding from Kenya or Uganda, it is still advisable to get your travel permit/visa for southern Sudan (GOSS office in Nairobi or Kampala, 40US dollar), it will save you a lot of hassle at the border.

Get around

Juba is a small town with big plans. You can walk through most of it in a few hours – however the town is quite spread out in to 3 distinct areas – Juba Town, Government ministries, and the Nile camps – and its a long hot dusty walk between the three. If you are coming here to live and work a car is essential to get around – although there are a lot of boda bodas (motorbike taxis) running during the day.

The roads are mostly unsealed, but you can get by in a saloon – although after a heavy rain its 4×4 only. However the roads are improving rapidly with much grading and tarring going on.

A really great map of Juba town is available in Jit Supermarket and in Google “south sudan maps” and you should find something.

See

The bridge across the Nile collapsed in 2006 but has been repaired. Be careful taking photographs, as it is prohibited in Sudan and you could end up paying a large fine.

Do

Plan to entertain yourself. There’s not much going on in town. That said the town is experiencing expat overload and the sheer numbers of Kenyans, Ugandans and the 100s of westerners in Juba are supporting numerous bars, restaurants and nightspots. There is something going on most weekends. You can also take a boat trip on the Nile (from Oasis Camp), go fishing, go jogging, there’s a Hash House Harriers in Juba.

But even then if coming here to work for an extended period bring out lots of books, DVDs etc.

Buy

Everything is trucked in from Uganda, hence things are expensive – however as more traders set up shop in Juba so supplies are increasing and prices are falling – but still expect most things to cost 30% – 100% more than it would cost in Kampala.

The Customs Market is the prime shopping area, with fresh fruit, over-priced building materials and the usual mix of consumer goods.

The air conditioned JIT supermarket is a newly opened supermarket next to Juba Raha Hotel, Jit advertises to have ‘everything under one roof’ and it almost does. Open to the public, Jit stocks a large number of toiletries including good quality soaps and shampoos and, perhaps more importantly for some, alcohol including beer, wine and spirits. Prices are reasonable given the alternative cost of having to bring things in by air yourself (and usually paying for excess luggage) and the owners promise to increase their stock with electronics/home appliances, cigarettes and perfumes. Pringles are not hard to find in Juba! There is even a decent selection of wine starting from a very reasonable US$8 a bottle.

Everywhere will accept Sudanese pounds, even if prices are quoted in US dollars – and you can change British pounds and Ugandan shillings at the Kenya Commercial Bank in town for rates in line with those in Khartoum (and, oddly, at better rates than those quoted on [1] www.xe.com)

Eat

The Village and Da Vinci camp are battling over who cooks the best pizza in town. Home and Away has some average food at western prices in western-ish surroundings. Numerous tent camps line the Nile, and all look the same, buffets tend to be the norm. Prices vary widely. Worth seeking out Rock City for the views over Juba. Acacia is a new addition – its a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, away from the hustle and bustle of Juba, good pub grub and great pizzas on the weekend.

• Spice ‘n Herbs, Malakia, near Queen of Sheba, ☎ +256 47725 6969 / +249 92366 3007, [2]. Authentic Indian & Chinese Cuisine. Sandwiches, Burgers, Pizza Take away / Door delivery services available.  edit

 

Drink

A cold beer is easy to find in Juba, in strong contrast to the North, but the best stocked bar in Juba is Fresh Freddies – everything from a 20yr old malt whisky to sambuca shots to vodka slush puppies.

Sleep

The accommodation boom is finally impacting on prices – tents are becoming less popular with air conditioned prefabs now the norm (many ‘hotels’ are simply a collection of prefabs). Prefabs with a/c are around $150 per night, safari-type tents around $80 to $100 – however demand and hence prices rise when a big conference is in town. Most accommodation is full-board, with buffet breakfasts, buffet lunches, and, you guessed it, buffet dinners 7 days a week. In Juba hotel-land hot showers are now the luxury to seek out, rather than air conditioning, which is easy to find.

• Oasis Camp is good for prefabs by the Nile (with free wireless internet and a small gym). Great food – still the best value for money in Juba.
• Mango camp is still popular.
• Beijing Juba hotel is expensive, but clean and efficient.
• Hotel Juba [3], A newly constructed lodge fully secured by 24-hour fully equipped security guards. Secure parking spaces are available for residents and visitors.
• Acacia Village [4], the top end of accomodation availiable in Juba, and pretty reasonable price wise. Swimming pool, Tennis court and AC rooms in permanent (not plastic prefab) buildings
• Summer Palace Hotel, 200m from Nile Commercial Bank in Juba town centre, ☎ +256 477100050 / 477106433 (jubasphotel@yahoo.com), [5]. En suite rooms with hot shower, wireless internet, DSTV, chinese restaurant from $100 per night, inc breakfast.  edit
• Holiday Hotel, ☎ +2499 2658 7991. Good ensuite rooms with tv. Bar and restaurant in the hotel. Tight security. Wired internet (free ethernet cable provided). AC and hot showers.  edit
• Paradise Hotel, [6]. Near Airport, stats 100USD.  edit
• Hamza Inn, Near Equity Bank, Juba Town, ☎ +256 47710 6798 / +249 092285 5057. Air-conditioned, Self contained rooms with dining & Conference. 3-5 min walking distance from KCB & Equity Bank.  edit

 

Get out

Daily flights to Nairobi and Khartoum are available.

There are weekly barges from Juba to the north. It will take 10 days to 2 weeks from Juba to Kosti (250 km south of Khartoum), it is hot, bring your own food and water and something to create some shade. From Kosti there are daily busses and minibuses to Khartoum.

Other than flying it is quite difficult to get out of Juba without your own transport (hired vehicles come with a driver who is instructed not to leave Juba). Even walking out of town into the countryside is difficult – the semi-rural sprawl of Juba extends for miles of shacks and squatter housing (even on the eastern side of the nile). Lots of paths out of town end up at one of the many army camps – who are not keen on trespassers! And of course landmines are still a risk.